Bob

Bob

A Wonderful 'Magical' Animal

Sunday, January 15, 2023

Italy 2019


Summer 2019 Europa Tour. Mariana was accepted into CIEE Student Summer Program in Mallorca, Spain. What a great chance to take a vacation! 

Since we'd traveled through Spain in 2017, we decided to go on vacation to Italy. Weather, food, tons of stuff to see. Can't beat it.

Our flight to Italy took us through my ancestral homeland of Ireland. Since we'd never been there we decided to see Dublin for a couple of days. 



IRELAND

Dublin 


Dublin is a fun city. More modern than I expected. We found the people friendly and helpful. It's easy to communicate, easy to get around and the weather is cool and pleasant.  

We targeted a few attractions on our visit. Trinity College houses the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library. Those were cool. We were awed by the colors and detail of the Book of Kells. Walking through the library was like walking back in time. Francisco was reminded of Harvard, the Gutenberg Bible and Widener Library.  
  
We thought Dublin Castle was better on the inside than on the outside. I liked that JFK and Bill Clinton had attended functions there more than British Royalty doing the same. Saint Patrick''s Cathedral looked immense from the outside while Christ Church Cathedral looked old and important. And then without fail the Viking Splash Tours guys would cruise up and surprise us. 

Our hotel was across the river from the Custom House. We enjoyed walking around the Temple Bar area. It's a very lively place. The restaurants and bars are all packed together. The Spire is a short walk across the river. It's in the middle of a big shopping district.  Dubliners know how to have fun! 

Next we flew from Dublin to Naples. We were going to see Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. 



ITALY


Naples / Amalfi Coast

We arrived in Naples at 9PM after a harrowing cab ride to our hotel in the city center. Our first experience in Italy was a Naples cab ride. The cars seemed to follow no rules at all. Red lights were suggestions to slow down. Lanes had no meaning at all. The ride from the airport to the city center was terrifying. But we arrived just fine (and quickly!). We had just enough time to try Naples world famous Pizza! It did not disappoint. Pizzas here are served one per person. The diameter is similar to back home, but the crust is thin so it's less filling. Food in Naples was cheap! And so was beer!! 

We left Naples the next morning after a surprisingly good hotel breakfast. The train station was close by and we found the local train that would take us to Pompeii, Vesuvius and Sorrento. 


Pompeii
 
The train lets you off very close to the ruins. You can leave luggage in the basement of the station for a small fee. Tickets. souveneirs and cold drinks are all right there. It's well organized. I was surprised at the size of the ruined city. And how well it was preserved after nearly 2,000 years. We wandered the streets guided by a map. It was HOT. We directed ourselves toward the main attractions. We walked down old streets, through town squares and into ancient homes. There were statues, columns and fountains, even a theater. Even a few preserved bodies.   

Vesuvius
 
After witnessing the destruction we needed to visit the culprit. We took a bus from Pompeii to nearby Vesuvius. The drive up and down the mountain involved many blind switch backs on a narrow road. The drivers would honk when approaching the turns and anybody coming the other way better scram. It was crazy! The walk to the crater wasn't too bad, except that it was hot. And on top you looked down into the crater. A big hole. It was our first volcano. We picked up lava rocks as souveneirs.

When the bus got back we collected our luggage and jumped on the next train to Sorrento. Easy!

Amalfi Coast
 
The next morning we took a bus along the Amalfi Coast. The road ran up the mountains with cliffs overlooking the coast. There were so many switchbacks we lost count. The drivers here are constantly taking blind turns and the buses are too big for the roads so there isn't room for two to pass. So they're constantly slowing on turns and backing up to make room. The scenery is spectacular. Cliffs looking out on the Mediterranean. 

We stopped at Positano. It's a town over a cove. The bus lets you off above and you walk a zillion stairs down into the town. Nowadays it's all touristy but you can see the houses clinging to the edge of the cliffs with the town square, beach, and marina below. We enjoyed walking around and swimming on the beach. The water was colder than expected but refreshing in the summer heat. We took a Positano bus back up the hill and continued on to Amalfi. This town wasn't quite as pretty but it was a little larger. The guide books says Amalfi once rivaled Naples for regional superiority. Now there's mostly shopping and restaurants. So we looked at trinkets and ate. 

From Amalfi we took a boat back to Sorrento. We got to see the cliffs from the ocean side! It was the prettiest boat trip ever. Amazing! Sorrento from the sea is a natural fortress. The town is on a 40 foot cliff with only one long ramp/stairs up. All walled and fortified. It must have been imposing to potential invaders.  

We enjoyed our hotel in Sorrento. Our hosts owned the floor of a building with great terraces. They made us great breakfasts and wonderful coffee! Italians know coffee!! One night we stumbled off the tourist and into a great local restaurant. Italian pasta and seafood. Yum.   

From Sorrento we took a local train (slow, hot, lots of stops) to Naples and then a Super-Fast from Naples to Rome. This train was smokin' fast. At times we were going 200 mph! We covered the 140 miles in a little over an hour. Super-Fast! 


ITALY


Rome

We took the Metro to our AirBnb. As we approached the address we saw the Roman Coliseum right down the road from our building. The building had an immense front door. Maybe 16' x 8'. There was a little door within the door that opened. It was maybe 4' x 2'. Built for hobbits. Mateo greeted us and showed us our apartment. Spacious. A little dark and cluttered but fine for us. After eating all our meals in restaurants the kitchen would save us money.  

....

We left Rome in a car. Very scary. Termini station is massive. Getting a rental car is a strange process. You take a deli ticket from your rental car agency and wait to be called. Some agencies had upwards of 70 numbers waiting to be called. Once called it's much like in the USA. Your car is assigned based on what you reserved. I was intimidated by what I'd seen in Naples and Amalfi. I was sure to get a car with GPS. Unfortunately this upgraded me to a giant SUV which was difficult to maneuver through small streets. (Parking was a nightmare). But the GPS was great. It led us to the highway and we were off to Siena.  


ITALY


Florence / Tuscany

Italian highways are fine. Mostly 2 or 3 lanes each way. Lanes are maybe a little narrower than US interstates. Speed limit is usually 55-70. We didn't hit much traffic. But the highways aren't the fun part, getting off them is. Tuscany is beautiful. Everything we imagined. You see the pictures at Olive Garden and here they come to life. Hills and vineyards, centuries old stone walls. So cool. 

Siena is a hill town. A big fort built on a high hill. What's surprising is how big the walled city is inside. 
....
Pisa
....
Florence
...
From Florence we took another Super-Fast train to Venice. This one stopped a few times and the track prevented us from going quite as fast. But we were still going around 110-115 mph.  


ITALY

Venice

Arriving in Venice is a trip. You leave this big train station and follow the sign for the water buses (vaporetto) and there it is, the Grand Canal. It's wide and it's super busy. So much activity. The canal is a boat highway.

We were in Venice for three days and stayed in an Airbnb. I guess it was a residential area  but in Venice nothing seems real. No cars. No bikes. Just people walking on stone walkways. Some wide; some narrow. Canals with bridges. Churches. Squares. Restaurants. We were a 10 or 15 minute walk to St Mark's Square but each time we walked we went a different way. The fun of Venice is walking around. Stumbling onto cool things.      

St Mark's square is beautiful. The Basilica is breathtaking. The Clocktower is cool. Doge's Palace is interesting. So many grand meeting rooms! I lost track of which served what purpose. Then you cross the Bridge of Sighs and you see the dungeons. Rialto Bridge is a functional photo opp. The vaporetto close to our apartment took us to the islands. 

We walked around Burano with its colorful houses. Such a very pleasant place with a relaxed pace. Then we went to Lido and found a beach town that reminded me of Martha's Vineyard. We swam in the Adriatic! 

ITALY

Milan
We took a Superfast train from Venice to Milan. In the distance we could see mountains to the north. Northern Italy is green. It would be a great place to spend some time. 

Milan felt like a big city. More modern than Rome. The Piazza del Duomo is vast. And the Duomo itself is enormous. Awesome. We walked to the top and saw the whole city. Right next to the Duomo is the super high end shopping mall Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Gucci, Prada, Luis Vuitton, Ferrari. My kind of place. Hah! Those were the only attractions we saw in Milan. We walked around the streets some. It felt like a very livable city. People seemed nice.    

SPAIN

Palma de Mallorca
Palma is a great small city with nice beaches. As the capital of Mallorca it figures prominently in Mediterranean history. There's interesting architecture all over and you're never far from the sea. We were able to meet the family Mariana would be staying with for the summer. A nice woman and her elderly mother. They even had a friendly dog.  
 
El Arenal
This is a CRAZY PARTY TOWN. There's a nice beach and boardwalk that goes on forever. It has perfect beach weather and a zillion bars and restaurants. The hotel we stayed in was a block off the beach, it had a nice pool. People were respectful. Arenal caters to young German travellers and they love to drink. It reminded me of Spring Break in Fort Lauderdale a million years ago, but one a larger scale. 
 
The Rest
We rented a car to get around. It gave us freedom to go see as much as possible during our short stay on this amazing island.
 
We drove to the southern part of the island through small villages to Mondragó. It's a beautiful beach in a national park. It's in a cove with perfect white sand and turquoise water. There are 12 foot cliffs along one side where you can jump into the water from. 
 
Another day we drove to El Trenc, a natural undeveloped beach on the west coast of the island. Some of the roads were a tight squeeze if someone was driving the other way (Fold those side mirros IN!) The beach dunes reminded me of Cape Code National Seashore. The beach was beautiful, white sand and tropical sea.  

Last we visited the gorgeous ancient mountain town of Valldemossa on the north side of the island. We walked the cobblestone narrow streets lined with shops and botiques. It's all touristy now but you could imagine how it was a thousand years ago.

One night it rained and the next morning the car was covered in dirt. All the cars were. Apparently the wind blows sand from the Sahara into the atmosphere and it falls with the rain onto Mallorca. We weren't that far from Algeria and North Africa.

IRELAND

Dublin 

Framingham - Newburgh, NY - Dublin, Ireland - Naples, Italy

1. Friday June 21  Drive rental from Framingham to 
SWF Airport Newburgh, NY 
Enterprise
Pick-Up Framingham Thursday, June 20, 2019
Return Newburgh Stewart Int Airport (SWF) Friday, June 21, 2019

2.  Friday June 21  Norwegian Air flight D81762 from SWF Airport Newburgh, NY
      to Dublin, Ireland 
Depart SWF Friday June 21 2019 9:00PM
Arrive DUB Saturday June 22 8:20AM
Direct flight 21 June 2019 from New York-Stewart (SWF) to Dublin (DUB)
Flight Duration 6:20

3.   Saturday June 22 - Sunday June 23  Clayton Hotel & Leisure Club
       Cardiff Lane, Dublin, Ireland 
Cardiff Lane Sir John Rogesons Quay, Dublin
City Centre - Four Star Hotel - Restaurants - Pool - Gym
Dublin Attractions: (Saturday June 22 8:20 AM - Sunday June 23 4:10PM)
National Museum, National Gallery, Trinity College, Book of Kells, Dublin Castle, Chester Beatty Library, Guiness Storehouse, Jameson Distillery, Christ Church Cathedral, St Patrick's Cathedral, Phoenix Park, Merrion Square, Poolpeg Lighthouse, Famine Memorial, James Joyce Cultural Center

4.   Sunday June 23  Ryan Air fligh FR6840 from Dublin, Ireland to Naples, Italy 
Depart DUB Sunday June 23 2019 4:10PM
Arrive NAP Sunday June 23 8:25 PM   

ITALY

Naples / Amalfi Coast
Arrive NAP Sunday June 23 8:25 PM

Naples Attractions: Archeological Museum (Greeks, Romans, Pompeii, Herculalaneum), Catacombs, Castel dell Ovo.

Nearby Attractions:, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Herculaneum (Train stops in between Naples and Sorrento), Amalfi Coast – Starts with Sorrento 

Getting into Naples late. After last bus to Sorrento. Taxi to Sorrento is $100.
Plan 1 night in Naples at clean central hotel close to Metro. See Naples sights next morning then train, bus or ferry to Sorrento, 1 hour away. See Sorrento sights that afternoon or maybe take a ferry to Capri.
2 nights at pleasant Sorrento hotel. 1 day will be tour of beautiful Amalfi coast. Either private tour bus or public bus or ferry. Stops in Positano and Amalfi.  
1 day will be for Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius.     
Leave Naples via train to Rome on Wednesday June 26.
Lots of trains, just over 1 hour duration. 

Sunday June 23 – Monday June 24
Hotel Ideal
Piazza Garibaldi 99 Central Station 80142 Naples
1 night stop. Good reviews. Central Location. Metro. Clean.
Airport shuttle (need to reserve ahead Laura at Hotel Ideal. $5 per person.
Alibus runs until 11:30 PM and goes very close to hotel. $5 per person.
Taxi $16-$18.

Monday June 24 – Wednesday June 26
The Wave
Viale Montariello 3 scala b 80067 Sorrento
Check-In 2PM Check-Out 10:30 AM
Good Location. Great reviews.

Sorrento to Naples to Rome


ITALY

Rome
Train or Bus from Sorrento to Naples to Rome
Arrive Rome Wednesday June 26
3 nights at pleasant apartment in Colosseo area
In Rome through Saturday June 29.

Rome Attractions: Vatican City, Vatican Museums & Libraries, Raphael Rooms, St Peter’s Basilica, Sistine Chapel, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain,  San Giovanni Basilica in Laterano, Centro Storico & the Spanish Steps, Santa Maria Maggiore, Catacombs & Via Appia Antica, Piazza Navona, Colosseum, Roman Forum, Circus Maximus, Baths of Caracalla, Palatine Hill, Borghese Gallery & Gardens
Day Trips: Ostia Antica, Orvieto. Olive Oil tour, Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, Assisi, Viterbo, Lago di Bolsena

Reservations required: St Peter's Tomb (Scavi), Sistine Chapel after hours, Colosseum, Colosseum underground, Pallazo Farnese, Galleria Borghese, Vatican museums, Vatican gardens, Domus Aurea, Domus Romana at Palazo Valentini, Papal Audience

Papal Audience Wednesdays AM tickets free pickup previous day

Wednesday June 26 – Saturday June 29
Roman House Colosseo apartment
Need to let host know ahead of time when you are arriving on June 26
Via Labicana 50 – Roma
Ring at the doorbell named "Romani" (int2)
·         From Termini take 714 bus to Merulana/Labicana stop, or
·         From Termini take Metro underground "A" to Manzoni, or
·         From Termini take Metro underground "B" to Colosseo
Airbnb
Check-In 1PM Check-Out 11AM
Full apartment. Kitchen, Air-conditioning. Good reviews. Neighborhood location close to Colloseum. Close to Metro and Buses. 

Thursday June 27 7:30 AM
Vatican Tour - Enjoy Rome - 00192 – Roma -
Skip the line - Essential Vatican Tour – Vatican Museums - Sistine Chapel - St. Peter’s Basilica - 27 Jun 2019 08:00 AM Standard
Reservation code: ENJOY ROME EOL-VATIC0800-VFYW9
Meeting point is inside the Enjoy Rome office – located on Via Vespasiano 46A (Metro OTTAVIANO stop on Line A). Arrive 25 minutes before tour to Check-in.

ITALY

Rome (Continued)
Rome to Florence / Tuscany Saturday June 29

Dollar Rental Car 
Mid-size - Ford C-MAX or Similar   75,10 € due at pickup
Pickup Saturday, June 29, 2019 @ 10:00 AM
    ROME TERMINI RAIL, ITALY DSH
    STAZIONE TERMINI BIN 24
    VIA GIOLITTI, 24, ITALY ROME, 00185
Return Sunday, June 30, 2019 @ 5:00 PM
    FLORENCE AIRPORT, ITALY DSH
    FLORENCE AMERIGO VESPUCCI AIRPORT
    In-Terminal
    ITALY FLORENCE, 50127
 


ITALY

Florence / Tuscany
Arrive Siena Saturday June 29
Siena to Florence Sunday June 30 

Florence  Attractions: Florence Accademia (Michelangelo’s David statue), Uffizi Gallery, Duomo, Ponte Vecchio bridge, Piazzale Michelangelo

Day Trips: Central Tuscany hills, Siena, Chianti region, San Gimigiano, Pisa, Volterra, San Marino

Reservations required: Uffizi Gallaries, Academia Michelangelo's David, Leaning Tower of Pisa

            Rent car in Rome, drive thru Tuscany to Siena. 3 hour drive.  
·         Car rental from Rome to Florence one-way, 2 days, total $80
·         Pick up Car in Rome – Termini
·         Beware Zona Traffico Limitato
·         Drive out of Rome to Tuscany countryside
·         See Central Tuscany hills, Siena, Chianti region, San Gimigiano, Pisa
·         Stay some hillside place Saturday June 29
·         Return car Florence Airport 3 miles outside city
·         2 nights Florence hotel Sunday June 30 – Tuesday July 2
·         On to Venice Tuesday July 2

Saturday June 29 – Sunday June 30
La Loggia - Villa Gloria
SP 222 Chiantigiana - Loc. Macialla 1 
53019 Quercegrossa Italy
Outside of Siena.
Booking.com Booking Number 3650.341.600 PIN 6396
Check-In 2:30PM Check-Out 11AM
Looks like Big Rooms. Very Pretty in the Tuscany Countryside. Good reviews.
Swimming Pool. Breakfast Included.

Sunday June 30 – Tuesday July 2
Tourist House Duomo 
Via Dei Cerretani 1 (black/nero), Historical Center, Florence, Italy 50123
Check-In 12:00PM Check-Out 10:30AM
Front desk occupied 8AM-3PM, Check-In after 3PM needs to be arranged and costs $20
Very close to Duomo, Uffizi, Academmia and train station, air conditioning
 
Leaning Tower of Pizza  (Aka Pisa)  Sunday June 30 10:30AM

Uffizi Gallery Sunday June 30 5PM
·         You can withdraw your ticket/s directly at the ticket office
·         Galleria degli Uffizi, Sun 30.06.2019

ITALY

Florence / Tuscany (Continued)

Duomo Monday July 1 10AM       
·         Baptistery of San Giovanni
·         Bruneslleschi’s Dome
·         Giotto’s Bell Tower
·         Museum
·         Santa Reparata

Accademia Gallery Tuesday July 2 9AM
·         Reservation Date 07-02-2019 at 09:00. 

Florence to Venice Tuesday July 2  2 hour by train


ITALY

Venice
Arrive Venice Tuesday July 2
Venice Attractions: Gondola, Grand Canal Boat Tour, Doge’s Palace & Bridge of Sighs, Ponte di Realto, St Mark’s Square, St Mark’s Basilica, Murano
Day Trips: Murano, Torcello & Borano Islands, Venice Lido, Lake Garda, Verona, Padua
Reservations required: Secret Iteneraries tour at Doge's Palace, Scrovegni Chapel in Padova

Tuesday July 2 – Friday July 5
DolceVita Apartments N. 408 Terrace
Barbaria de le Tole, 6444 Castello, Venice, Veneto 30122
AirBNB
Castello district, Quiet Neighborhood, Walking distance to main sights, First Floor, Terrace, fully equipped kitchen, Towels & Sheets, Wifi, No Air Conditioning, Beware Mosquitos
Check-In 2 PM Check-Out 10AM

Venice to Milan Friday July 5   2½ hours by train

ITALY

Milan
Arrive Milan Friday July 5
In Milan for 1 night only
Milan is known for Duomo di Milano, Da Vinci's Last Supper, Opera at La Scala and the Golden Quadrilateral of shopping
Milan Attractions: Duomo di Milano, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Teatro alla Scala, Braidense National Library, Fontana di Piazza Castello, Sforzesco Castle,
Naviglio Grande, Naviglio Pavese, Porta Nuova district, Piazza Gae Aulenti,
Bosco Verticale
Reservations required Da Vinci's Last Supper, Opera at La Scala
Depart Milan BGY Saturday July 6 2019 6:25 PM Ryan Air flight FR9170

Trains run from city center to airport every 30 minutes. Takes 50 minutes. $15 pp
Buses run from city center to airport every 20 minutes. Takes 60 minutes. $6 pp
Taxis run from city center to airport at fixed cost.           Takes 50 minutes. $100

Friday July 5 – Saturday July 6
Hotel RossoVino Milano  (aka Hotel Red Wine)
Via Privata Francesco Bartolozzi 9
P. Vittoria   20137 Milan
Check-In 2PM Check-Out 11:30AM  (Free Luggage Storage)
Residential area. Buses 50 meters. Trains 5 minute walk. Parking $10 per day
 
Depart Milan Sunday July 6 6:25 PM from Bergamo (BGY) Airport for Mallorca


SPAIN

Palma de Mallorca

Milan, Italy - Palma de Mallorca, Spain - Madrid, Spain - Boston

A.  Saturday July 6  Ryan Air flight FR9170 from Milan (Bergamo), Italy
       to Palma de Mallorca, Spain 
Depart BGY Sunday July 6 2019 6:25 PM
Arrive PMI Sunday July 6 2019 8:15 PM   

B.  Saturday July 6 - Sunday July 7  Hotel Residencia Colon, Palma de Mallorca
31 Diceimbre 31, Palma 07003
Clean Hotel, Central Location
Check-in 1:00 PM    Check-out 11:00 AM
Mallorca Attractions: (Saturday July 6 8:15 PM - Tuesday July 9 2:15PM)
Palau de Almudaina, Momestir de Lluc, Casa Robert Graves, Pollentia Ruins, Palau March, Catedral de Mallorca, Es Baluard, Coves del Drac, Deia, Formentor

C.  Sunday July 7 - Tuesday July 9  Hotel Iris, Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Amilcar, 3, El Arenal (Mallorca), Spain
Pool, Balcony, Bar, Restaurant, Close to Beach
Check-in 2 PM    Check-out 11:00 AM
Mallorca Attractions: (Saturday July 6 8:15 PM - Tuesday July 9 2:15PM)
Palau de Almudaina, Momestir de Lluc, Casa Robert Graves, Pollentia Ruins, Palau March, Catedral de Mallorca, Es Baluard, Coves del Drac, Deia, Formentor
         
Budget Reservation  $106 3-days
Pick-Up Sunday July 7 9:00 PM  Palma de Mallorca
Son Sant Joan Airport (PMI) 
Budget Aeropuerto De Palma, Palma De Mallorca, ES 07611 
Return  Tuesday July 9 2:00 PM  Palma de Mallorca
Son Sant Joan Airport (PMI) 
Budget Aeropuerto De Palma, Palma De Mallorca, ES 07611 
Vehicle Class Opel Corsa or similar  
Unlimited Mileage Included

D. Tuesday July 9  Ryan Air flight FR2054 from Palma de Mallorca, Spain to Madrid, Spain 
Depart PMI Tuesday July 9 2019 2:15 PM
Arrive MAD Tuesday July 9 2019 3:50 PM    

E. Tuesday July 9  Norwegian Air flight DY7753 from Madrid, Spain to Boston
Depart MAD Tuesday July 9 2019 7:25 PM
Arrive BOS Tuesday July 9 2019 9:00 PM    

F.  Tuesday July 9  Logan Express Boston to Framingham
Bus leaves Logan every 30 minutes until Midnight, and 1:15 AM    


MARIANA

CIEE  
https://www.ciee.org/go-abroad/high-school-study-abroad/summer/spain/palma-de-mallorca/spanish-language-intensive
Language & Culture  Spanish Language Intensive  Session 2
Mallorca Spain   
Dates: Sunday July 7 – Saturday August 3, 2019

I.  Saturday August 3  Ryan Air flight FR2052 from Palma de Mallorca, Spain to Madrid, Spain 
Depart PMI Saturday August 3 2019 6:25 AM
Arrive MAD Saturday August 3 2019 8:00 AM    

II.  Saturday August 3  Norwegian Air flight DY7753 from Madrid, Spain to Boston
Depart MAD Saturday August 3  2019 7:25 PM
Arrive BOS Saturday August 3  2019 9:00 PM

III.  Hitchhike Boston to Framingham

First thing we confirmed Mariana's program was a go. Next we looked around for the cheapest flights. Turns out flights between European cities are relatively cheap so it was all about finding the cheapest flight to and from Europe. Best we found was on WoW Air. From Boston to Reykjavik to London. Homeward we'd fly from Mallorca to Madrid to Boston. 
 
But then WoW airlines went out of business! We got our money back (thank you Chase Visa Card) but we had to find another flight on short notice. Enter Newburgh New York to Dublin to Naples. Gotta be flexible!
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